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Ait bougemez valley & Glaoua country 15 days/ 12 days walk
ITINERARY
Day 1:
Arrive in Marrakech. Transfer to the Hotel Foucauld.
Day 2:Leave the hotel after an early breakfast and drive into the Atlas Mountains, stopping en route at Azilal for lunch (not included). Mid-afternoon, you arrive at the charming village of Idoukaln near Agouti. Here you meet your Berber host and spend the night at his family home, a Moroccan Gite d'etape with its own lounges and a shady court yard where one can have a drink under the apricot trees. At this village you’ll find yourself in the midst of high, fortress-like houses built into the rocky hillsides. The flat lands of the valley are cultivated with corn, wheat, barley, potatoes, tomatoes and various fruit and nut trees. Sheep, goats, cows, donkeys, horses and mules graze everywhere.
Day 3: The next ten days will be spent walking through the spectacular gorges and peaks of the Massif du Mgoun, one of the most scenic ranges in the High Atlas Mountains, using the trails that the Berbers have used themselves for centuries. Mules are loaded with your gear and will be driven by friendly Berbers. From Idoukaln, you take the high dirt road over the mountains, as the gorges here are impassable. You then follow the Gougoult Valley to Abachkou c.18000m, where you will find the last telephone until you return. Here you’ll camp for the night.
Day 4:You continue up the valley, passing the village of Tissint to a col, the Tizi-n'Tighist (2,399m). Here, in the heat of the day, is a very good spot for having lunch. Soon after continuing, you’ll stumble across some excellent prehistoric rock-carvings within an enclosure; thought to date from 8000 years ago. They have literally been etched into the rock using heat... there are also some fake ones as well. Can you spot the difference? The pictures show hunting scenes, men on horseback with spears and some tribal symbols from that time, after the ice age when there were many more wild animals around. You’ll descend to enter a broad, cultivated valley and climb steeply up to your campsite high on a terrace, opposite the village of Tarbat-n'Tirsal.
Day 5:Head beneath the imposing bulk of Jbel Rhat to a col (2,850m) then contour above crags with amazing views of rock strata and over four false summits before dropping steeply down to Imazayn. You’ll camp on a small terrace above and opposite the villages. 2250m
Day 6:Today is a longish day as you ascend initially to a col (2,550m) before following a rocky spur down to a small summer hamlet. From here, you skirt a deep gorge to Imi-n'Tizgui, your lunch spot. Continuing down the valley to the large village of Tissili, you enter the Tissili Gorge, which leads eventually into the main Tessaout river valley from whence you turn easterly and camp near to the small village of Ayt Ali-n-Ittou.
Day 7:Another long day's walk (although mainly flat) along the main Tessaout valley through willows and walnut groves through the beautiful village of Ichbakene, where houses are perched high above the river on a rocky promontory. Lunch around here; you may want to take a paddle in the river, although you will probably end up having a water fight with the local kids. You then follow a dusty trail along the valley side as it meanders. The valley is flanked by mountainsides, which in turn become desert-like. Soon, you head off through irrigated pastures to your campsite on a rocky spur, surrounded by great mountain views at Azib-n-Ihhis.
Day 8:Enjoy a three-hour hike passing through the large villages of Amezri and Tasgaiwalt. You arrive at the head of the Tessaout valley by midday, where you’ll make camp at around 2370m and rest over lunch. There are several river crossings to be made throughout the morning and some of the rocks can be a little slippery so take care. The afternoon is free to explore the surrounding area or bathe in the fresh mountain stream (and we mean fresh!). There may be the opportunity in the afternoon to follow the path further up the valley and explore the upper reaches of the Tessaout gorge. There is a spectacular waterfall and an unbearably cold plunge pool, but the backdrop of red mountains is spectacular.
Day 9:Early morning ascent steeply from the river up to the Rougoult Pass (Tizi). There are spectacular views back to where you have been walking for the last couple of days. The climb is sustained, but it is very well graded. Eventually, you get to the high broad plateau beneath the Mgoun Massif proper, stopping en route for lunch amongst the volcanic jumble of rocks. The Afternoon is spent traversing the high valley, where nomadic tribesmen camp with their flocks. Late afternoon you drop down slightly to a relic glacial plain on the Tarkeddit plateau 2900m to arrive at your spectacular campsite surrounded by jagged peaks.
Day 10:Today is a long day, especially for those who wish to climb Mgoun. An Alpine Start (or rather a slightly later Moroccan start) is made to ascend to the col of Tizi-n'Oumsoud, a challenging ascent on scree leads to the main ridge. This provides a spectacular, but technically easy approach to the main summit (3960 m we beg to differ with the map height of 4068m!). You’ll return part of the way along this ridge before descending directly to your camp; lunch is normally had near the summit giving a good example of Haute cuisine. Dress warmly because of the cold wind that can mask the affects of the very strong sunlight.
Day 11:This morning, after a steep ascent to another col, the Tizi -n-Tarkeddit, you can see in front of you far below the rich green pastures of the valley of Ait Bougemez and the village of Agouti, from whence you came nearly ten days ago. From the pass, you make a gentle descent through a little valley and camp near a tributary of the river Arous at 2194m approx. you may want to explore a little way into the Arous gorge, where from one point one can look up between the cliffs of the gorge entrance and see the summit of Mgoun towering above.
Day 12:An easy day following the meandering Arous river valley through many small Berber settlements, which completes the circuit and brings you back to the Ait Bougemez valley by lunchtime. Afternoon can be spent wandering around the villages nearby; there are some dinosaur footprints in a nearby village, which have been left behind in metamorphosed mud. You’ll spend the night at Idoukaln and bid farewell to our Berber friends; this will probably be the last time that you see the muleteers.
Day 13:Return drive to Marrakech via Azilal where lunch is included, and then on to the Hotel Foucauld, to arrive late afternoon. The busy main square of Marrakech, the Djemaa-El-Fna is well worth a visit especially at dusk, with the view to the Koutoubia from the terraces of the surrounding bars and restaurants. The last group evening meal is normally included tonight at the Hotel Foucauld (If not it will be arranged for tomorrow night). There is a set menu, but you can pay an extra supplement (30D approximately) and eat anything from the buffet, going back as many times as you like! During the hot summer months the meal is often had on the roof of the hotel (Drinks are not included. The waiters can normally get alcohol (off the premises) if you give them money to do so. The hotel does have a license to serve it, but normally does not stock very much. The Moroccan beer tastes very much like alcohol free - chemical lager, which it probably is after all! Moroccan wine is variable, but nothing normally to write home about. It is probably best to stick to soft drinks and "Berber Whiskey," - Mint Tea!
Day 14:Morning tour of the souks (markets) of Marrakech for those last minute presents. Particularly good are the products that are made of wood and leather, but you will find plenty of interesting items including dates and walnuts. The leader will be able to help you find items that you may want, but they’ll leave the haggling up to you... it is all too stressful! In the afternoon, it is recommended that you go to the Saadian tombs and maybe, if you still have clothes to look smart (ish) in, attempt to get into the famous Mamoumia Hotel for a drink...at a price! This was the hotel that Sir Winston Churchill often stayed in, and is still, by World standards, excellent. Lunch and dinner today is at your expense. You may like to eat in the Djemaa El Fna, the central square in the city, which at night takes on vibrancy and personality that is unique in the world, (just watch your pockets though). Quite a few Westerners now eat actually in the square, where there are many barbecues lighting up (and smoking up) the place. Here you can eat for around 20 dirhams (including a soft drink) fish and chips, kebabs, and chicken. The advantage of the place is that you can actually see how your food is being cooked and get them to redo it if necessary.
Day 15:Transfer to the airport (15 minutes) and fly Marrakech to home. (Note that most the duty free shops sell items in French Francs only, although if you do have a few Dirhams left the airport cafes will serve you drinks for them).
Notes
Trip Rating
Easy - Gentle terrain, four to six hours a day walking without steep climbs or vertiginous mountains. Longest day is four to six hours with easy ascents and descents of up to 1000ft. No scrambling or dizzy heights.
Day 1:
Arrive in Marrakech. Transfer to the Hotel Foucauld.
Day 2:Leave the hotel after an early breakfast and drive into the Atlas Mountains, stopping en route at Azilal for lunch (not included). Mid-afternoon, you arrive at the charming village of Idoukaln near Agouti. Here you meet your Berber host and spend the night at his family home, a Moroccan Gite d'etape with its own lounges and a shady court yard where one can have a drink under the apricot trees. At this village you’ll find yourself in the midst of high, fortress-like houses built into the rocky hillsides. The flat lands of the valley are cultivated with corn, wheat, barley, potatoes, tomatoes and various fruit and nut trees. Sheep, goats, cows, donkeys, horses and mules graze everywhere.
Day 3: The next ten days will be spent walking through the spectacular gorges and peaks of the Massif du Mgoun, one of the most scenic ranges in the High Atlas Mountains, using the trails that the Berbers have used themselves for centuries. Mules are loaded with your gear and will be driven by friendly Berbers. From Idoukaln, you take the high dirt road over the mountains, as the gorges here are impassable. You then follow the Gougoult Valley to Abachkou c.18000m, where you will find the last telephone until you return. Here you’ll camp for the night.
Day 4:You continue up the valley, passing the village of Tissint to a col, the Tizi-n'Tighist (2,399m). Here, in the heat of the day, is a very good spot for having lunch. Soon after continuing, you’ll stumble across some excellent prehistoric rock-carvings within an enclosure; thought to date from 8000 years ago. They have literally been etched into the rock using heat... there are also some fake ones as well. Can you spot the difference? The pictures show hunting scenes, men on horseback with spears and some tribal symbols from that time, after the ice age when there were many more wild animals around. You’ll descend to enter a broad, cultivated valley and climb steeply up to your campsite high on a terrace, opposite the village of Tarbat-n'Tirsal.
Day 5:Head beneath the imposing bulk of Jbel Rhat to a col (2,850m) then contour above crags with amazing views of rock strata and over four false summits before dropping steeply down to Imazayn. You’ll camp on a small terrace above and opposite the villages. 2250m
Day 6:Today is a longish day as you ascend initially to a col (2,550m) before following a rocky spur down to a small summer hamlet. From here, you skirt a deep gorge to Imi-n'Tizgui, your lunch spot. Continuing down the valley to the large village of Tissili, you enter the Tissili Gorge, which leads eventually into the main Tessaout river valley from whence you turn easterly and camp near to the small village of Ayt Ali-n-Ittou.
Day 7:Another long day's walk (although mainly flat) along the main Tessaout valley through willows and walnut groves through the beautiful village of Ichbakene, where houses are perched high above the river on a rocky promontory. Lunch around here; you may want to take a paddle in the river, although you will probably end up having a water fight with the local kids. You then follow a dusty trail along the valley side as it meanders. The valley is flanked by mountainsides, which in turn become desert-like. Soon, you head off through irrigated pastures to your campsite on a rocky spur, surrounded by great mountain views at Azib-n-Ihhis.
Day 8:Enjoy a three-hour hike passing through the large villages of Amezri and Tasgaiwalt. You arrive at the head of the Tessaout valley by midday, where you’ll make camp at around 2370m and rest over lunch. There are several river crossings to be made throughout the morning and some of the rocks can be a little slippery so take care. The afternoon is free to explore the surrounding area or bathe in the fresh mountain stream (and we mean fresh!). There may be the opportunity in the afternoon to follow the path further up the valley and explore the upper reaches of the Tessaout gorge. There is a spectacular waterfall and an unbearably cold plunge pool, but the backdrop of red mountains is spectacular.
Day 9:Early morning ascent steeply from the river up to the Rougoult Pass (Tizi). There are spectacular views back to where you have been walking for the last couple of days. The climb is sustained, but it is very well graded. Eventually, you get to the high broad plateau beneath the Mgoun Massif proper, stopping en route for lunch amongst the volcanic jumble of rocks. The Afternoon is spent traversing the high valley, where nomadic tribesmen camp with their flocks. Late afternoon you drop down slightly to a relic glacial plain on the Tarkeddit plateau 2900m to arrive at your spectacular campsite surrounded by jagged peaks.
Day 10:Today is a long day, especially for those who wish to climb Mgoun. An Alpine Start (or rather a slightly later Moroccan start) is made to ascend to the col of Tizi-n'Oumsoud, a challenging ascent on scree leads to the main ridge. This provides a spectacular, but technically easy approach to the main summit (3960 m we beg to differ with the map height of 4068m!). You’ll return part of the way along this ridge before descending directly to your camp; lunch is normally had near the summit giving a good example of Haute cuisine. Dress warmly because of the cold wind that can mask the affects of the very strong sunlight.
Day 11:This morning, after a steep ascent to another col, the Tizi -n-Tarkeddit, you can see in front of you far below the rich green pastures of the valley of Ait Bougemez and the village of Agouti, from whence you came nearly ten days ago. From the pass, you make a gentle descent through a little valley and camp near a tributary of the river Arous at 2194m approx. you may want to explore a little way into the Arous gorge, where from one point one can look up between the cliffs of the gorge entrance and see the summit of Mgoun towering above.
Day 12:An easy day following the meandering Arous river valley through many small Berber settlements, which completes the circuit and brings you back to the Ait Bougemez valley by lunchtime. Afternoon can be spent wandering around the villages nearby; there are some dinosaur footprints in a nearby village, which have been left behind in metamorphosed mud. You’ll spend the night at Idoukaln and bid farewell to our Berber friends; this will probably be the last time that you see the muleteers.
Day 13:Return drive to Marrakech via Azilal where lunch is included, and then on to the Hotel Foucauld, to arrive late afternoon. The busy main square of Marrakech, the Djemaa-El-Fna is well worth a visit especially at dusk, with the view to the Koutoubia from the terraces of the surrounding bars and restaurants. The last group evening meal is normally included tonight at the Hotel Foucauld (If not it will be arranged for tomorrow night). There is a set menu, but you can pay an extra supplement (30D approximately) and eat anything from the buffet, going back as many times as you like! During the hot summer months the meal is often had on the roof of the hotel (Drinks are not included. The waiters can normally get alcohol (off the premises) if you give them money to do so. The hotel does have a license to serve it, but normally does not stock very much. The Moroccan beer tastes very much like alcohol free - chemical lager, which it probably is after all! Moroccan wine is variable, but nothing normally to write home about. It is probably best to stick to soft drinks and "Berber Whiskey," - Mint Tea!
Day 14:Morning tour of the souks (markets) of Marrakech for those last minute presents. Particularly good are the products that are made of wood and leather, but you will find plenty of interesting items including dates and walnuts. The leader will be able to help you find items that you may want, but they’ll leave the haggling up to you... it is all too stressful! In the afternoon, it is recommended that you go to the Saadian tombs and maybe, if you still have clothes to look smart (ish) in, attempt to get into the famous Mamoumia Hotel for a drink...at a price! This was the hotel that Sir Winston Churchill often stayed in, and is still, by World standards, excellent. Lunch and dinner today is at your expense. You may like to eat in the Djemaa El Fna, the central square in the city, which at night takes on vibrancy and personality that is unique in the world, (just watch your pockets though). Quite a few Westerners now eat actually in the square, where there are many barbecues lighting up (and smoking up) the place. Here you can eat for around 20 dirhams (including a soft drink) fish and chips, kebabs, and chicken. The advantage of the place is that you can actually see how your food is being cooked and get them to redo it if necessary.
Day 15:Transfer to the airport (15 minutes) and fly Marrakech to home. (Note that most the duty free shops sell items in French Francs only, although if you do have a few Dirhams left the airport cafes will serve you drinks for them).
Notes
Trip Rating
Easy - Gentle terrain, four to six hours a day walking without steep climbs or vertiginous mountains. Longest day is four to six hours with easy ascents and descents of up to 1000ft. No scrambling or dizzy heights.